Wednesday, February 13, 2008


So I’m sitting at Tabla on a cold, misty Saturday night at about nine, picking moist meat off of duck bones, and telling my friend about the vacancy sign hanging in the Mercury’s food department. At that point, I figured that it was as good of a time as any to write a review.

We jaunted down NE 28th from the Laurelhurst Theater, a little hungry after seeing a movie about a seriously disfunctional family (“Margot at the Wedding”). Walking, we talked, divulging secrets of our own ancestors, and appropriately sought a restaurant that would offer us warmth and comfort. Portland’s restaurant row isn’t too bad a place to be hungry--last weekend we hit up Noble Rot for a meal comprised of a superb (albeit pricey) roast duck surrounded by liquefied pate, and other delicious bites. On this night, we scanned the menu outside Tabla, for beckoning words like “radicchio,” “confit,” and “house-made.” They were all there, so we walked right in.

Surprisingly half-empty on a Saturday, the host gave us our choice of a table or the kitchen bar (they have two bars—the alcohol one and the food one—very nice), and chose to set up as close to fire as possible. The staff was extremely relaxed and friendly (even prompting comments out of my mouth like “this would be a great place to work”). We were offered tastes when it came to wine decisions (despite the fact that our server had a thorough knowledge of her wines, and could describe each with detail, and made decent suggestions), and the cook just handed us our dishes over the counter when she finished cooking them. Home-style.

The food was homey as well, but by this I mean homey like the way that someone can invite you to their house for dinner, and cooks you something good, that fills you up with no flash. We started with the mussels from Puget Sound (SO fresh) in a bit of broth with sausage, sautéed onions and herbs. The thing about this dish was, the flavor was SO subtle, SO mild, that it was almost flavor-less. I mean, shellfish will always provide a distinct taste, but the sausage tasted like...scrambled egg. Not bad...just unexpected? The dish could have been enhanced by salt, but we were ashamed to ask for it from the sweet cook behind the counter. The kitchen was pretty cool looking back there, like an Italian kitchen with white matte paint layered behind the knife racks and shelves of cookbooks. The aforementioned radicchio (salad) was deconstructed--two slices of whole d’anjou pear underneath a pile of the greens (can you use the term “greens” if they’re purple?) with currants, and a wedge of Humboldt fog (I love that cheese and it was a generous portion, but didn’t exactly pair with any of the other flavors there, which in a way resembled coleslaw). Finally, the duck confit. Whipped potatoes. Kale. The kale was good. Braised and slightly sweet, like southern collards. Again...salt? The duck was okay. Honestly, it was kind of a “the ingredients should speak for themselves” preparation...but these ingredients were, well...either shy or mute. That said, it was satisfying sustenance on a cold winter night with a good friend and our consoling conversation. Fortunately, she had more to say than the food, and the wine was good. A solid B. Service, A. Food, C+. One cool thing about Tabla is that they offer a $24 prix fixe menu, which is great—3 courses, your choice, with the option of wine pairings. Their sommelier also has a spot on the menu that features a rotating wine region, with four selections from that area available by the glass. This week it was Languedoc-Rousillion.

As an endnote, a server came into the kitchen as things were really slowing down, and as we started talking (about restaurant staff breaking into song), he mentioned that he was waiting on a table in their private dining room which included a freelance writer for Gourmet. I asked whether their menu was set or if they ordered off of the menu that we did. Provocatively, I found out that they ordered a la carte. I wondered if anybody ordered the breakfast sausage (in the mussels, that is).

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