Thursday, May 19, 2011

Food poetry.
Spotted on a recent run through my Portland neighborhood, Irvington.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Miang Kham


I pulled this book off my shelf tonight to read before bed, and as you can imagine from the above photo, it did the opposite of lull me to sleep. No, delving into "Pacific and Southeast Asian Cooking" from Time Life's 1970s "Foods of the World" series only made me hungry. I love reading their observations on Hawaiian food at the time (describing the melting pot through a mainlander's eyes), but was engaged in the section on Indonesia. The combination of coconut, ginger, shrimp paste and peanuts in gado-gado salad has me craving something like it. The peanuts, and the color of this dish made me think of miang kham, my favorite Thai snack. The version served at the Whiskey Soda Lounge is my favorite, because of its tartness and fire from chopped chilis. You can see what that looks like here. Stop drooling. Right?

Miang kham is composed of a combination of chopped dried shrimp, ginger, shallots, Thai chilis, peanuts, coconut and limes (with the peel on - that's the key, I think), wrapped into a betel leaf (sometimes with a sweet sauce). The recipe for the Whiskey Soda version can be found here. Those are served atop the leaf, and when you eat it, you pick up the thing, wrap it in a bundle and pop the whole thing in your mouth. When I went to Thailand, I was intent on trying other versions. Sometimes they're served wrapped for you (like a little purse), and sold on skewers. Here's a few photos of that (obviously I'm not the first to be obsessed with this dish). At a market in Bangkok, I came across the woman below, who sold a deconstructed version. the ingredients were placed separately in a bag to take on the go. It was a lot sweeter than I prefer, but still tasty and definitely one of the coolest bagged snack foods I've ever seen.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Pink Drinks

Pink drinks make me happy. Of course there's rosé, and even more lovely, sparkling rosé, but when a cocktail arrives before me blushing with a rosy hue, I am downright delighted. The refresher pictured above is "El Diablo" at Natural Selection, a combination of tequila, cassis and ginger beer. I've written before of my affection for the "Pink Pepper" at Yakuza, which uses pink peppercorns to spark up the flavor of grapefruit. At Prasad, my favorite juice bar in the Pearl, they serve a mixture called "Beulah Land," blending grapefruit, apple, celery and mint, that arrives pretty in pink. The cocktail below was a brilliant spring concoction at Castagna, simply called "Rhubarb," made with Appleton white rum, rhubarb and eggwhites. One of my dining companions ordered that last night, while I couldn't resist their tangelo gin and tonic. Castagna's short list of culinary coctkails matches the inventiveness of their menu, definitely one return to for further exploration. Unfortunately, they're only served in the dining room, not the café, just one more element that makes the dining experience there so special.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011


Cutest little coffee shop in Portland: Oui Presse. Homemade pistachio cake with buttercream, magazine racks stocked with fashion, food and foreign publications, Parisian decor and an owner who was both working the counter and making play-dough for her son's class at the same time. Need I say more?

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Yesterday, Hawaii chefs, farmers, diners and concerned members of Hawaii’s food community gathered to talk about sustainability and the state of the local food supply at the Hawaii Food Forum. You can read one summary of it at KITV News. I knew that this was coming and wished that I could have been there to hear what was discussed. Following the panel last night, I read quite a bit of commentary online, hopeful about what might have taken place, but became disappointed as I read about the challenges voiced that I was already aware of. My thoughts are reeling as I see the conversation go on, and I hope that this inspires movement and change, but the question really is how. And who is going to take charge to lead a statewide intitative to further food independence?

I moved to Portland because I was frustrated in Hawaii. I was working in my mom’s grocery store, learning her 20 year-old business and watching her feed a neighborhood as gas costs rose and prices climbed. When I last worked there in 2006, I kept turning over organic products (almost all shipped in) and saw that many were made in Oregon. Granted, staple ingredients are much cheaper on the mainland, but the great chefs in Portland are committed to using as much local product as they can. Local can be limiting, but I believe it is the way to go. So I moved here, frustrated by the apathy that I saw in Hawaii at the time, to see how farm-to-table can work in a city.

Five years later, much has changed on Kauai (this is where I’m from, and what I know, not Maui or Oahu). Waipa Foundation fosters sustainability through farming and educational initiatives targeted at the surrounding Hawaiian community, farmers markets have increased in number and popularity, and there is more awareness about growing your own food when possible. Experiments have begun with restaurants growing their own vegetables such as 22 North, utilizing local product as they do at Oasis on the Beach and Hukilau Lanai, and farms opening restaurants in the case of the Common Ground non-profit. I go into Living Foods Market and am so excited to see that they are roasting their own coffee! Baking their own bread! Selling local cheese and honey! But the store and café are not crowded. And, well, it’s expensive.

High-end chefs have always championed the good stuff – Merriman, Roy, Alan Wong. I’m not going to pretend to know everything about the history of Hawaii Regional Cuisine as I went to college and became a diner on the mainland, not in Hawaii. After the Hawaii Food Forum yesterday, I read on Twitter that the one chef one farmer paradigm is over. I agree, that no, that’s not enough, but lets admit that Ed Kenney and Ma’o Farms together have made great strides to raise awareness of the flavor of locally grown produce and how that can elevate local restaurant cuisine. Not to mention the incredible example set forth for education and stewardship of the land in the case of Ma'o Farms. The importance of a chef to expose people to the beauty of the product growing in their own backyard (I had never eaten pepeiau mushrooms before having it in a pasta at Town), cannot be overstated.

But Hawaii does not have as widespread of a dining culture as metropolitan cities. Many people cook at home. So what’s the solution there? Buying mainland-grown staples will always be costly. Wheat will always be shipped in, and probably rice, unless Hawaii starts growing it in quantity again. Maybe then it’s supplementing what must be purchased with home gardens for vegetables and fruit. Akamai Backyard is an inspiring example. I’ve seen friends starting similar yard farms in Hawaii. But lets’ face it, not everyone has a green thumb or the time and skill to be a farmer (though I wish they taught that as an elective in public school). Is there a service like Your Backyard Farmer in Hawaii, where someone will come in and set up a food-producing garden for you that you only have to maintain? If not, I hope to see this someday. Just writing that is evidence of another challenge; I use the name “Hawaii” generally to talk about the entire state, but really each island is a distinct community unto itself with its own set of unique resources and obstacles.

There is no singular solution, this change has to come from a number of different directions. People need to appreciate local food, and know how to prepare it deliciously. Farmers need to be valued, agriculture, REAL agriculture, the kind of farms where people are growing FOOD for the community, need to be financially supported and protected by the state). And there are additional challenges posed by the presence, and business of multinational genetic engineering operations farming in the islands.

I write this from the perspective of a concerned child of Kaua’i, whose parents opened a store in the 70s in order to have a place to retail local produce on the island, who grew up on a working banana and papaya farm, whose grandparents, uncles, aunts and cousins farmed and were involved in the Kauai County Farm Bureau and local ag for decades, and who now lives on the mainland, visits Hawaii only a couple of times a year and stays connected by following chefs on Twitter, reading Edible Hawaiian Islands (a beautiful publication that showcases local food, the people growing and cooking it, and how to prepare it yourself) and Hana Hou magazines. I don't claim to be a current part of Hawaii's food community, but with my family and friends there, I will always care about it.

Last time I visited Oahu this past January, I was with a friend - a Portland chef who specializes in Thai food. We went to Maunakea Market in Chinatown and were both impressed by the supply, vibrancy and freshness of the vegetables, seafood and meat sold by the vendors, most of which was locally grown and raised. This is the quality of produce he covets on the mainland and often has to buy from elsewhere. We really HAVE something in Hawaii, but it’s a matter of how to make people value it, crave it, grow more of it, pay for it, and afford it. I think that sustainability, self-sufficiency and fantastic flavor, is worth it.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Eggs and Greens

Nettles are one of the first signs of spring on menus in Portland, and I'm fond of scouting out the ways in which different chefs use them. Today, I think that the Best Use of Nettles Award should go to Beaker and Flask for the nettle and mushroom galette: seasoned greens and sauteed mushrooms folded into a buttery, crisp and flaky crust, topped with a gooey fried egg and microgreens.

To me, both eggs and greens epitomize this culinary season, when the rain keeps falling and the sky stays grey, only creating a perfect backdrop for the vibrancy of sprouting leaves. On the plate at this time of year that color is just as alive, especially accompanied by eggs that naturally represent rebirth and the yearned for yellow sun.

The contrast between crisp greens with a bit of lemon or vinaigrette and the richness of egg yolk is one of my favorite combinations. Asparagus topped with a fried egg and parmigiano reggiano, and sauteed spinach added to a great eggs benedict are some of the best things I have tasted. In the photo above, at lunch at Clyde Common, they do it twice: a salad of broccoli rabe with lemon, pistachio, egg vinaigrette and a poached egg, and then whole grain flatbread spread with goat cheese and those wild greens tossed in a slightly sweet but tart vinaigrette.

Monday, April 11, 2011


Magic Little Pink Peppercorns

Spicy desserts, herbal cocktails, and floral notes in savory dishes always enchant me. These combinations are seemingly paradoxical, but so deliciously complex when perfected. Lavender shortbread, aromatic gin (like Aviation or Ransom’s Old Tom), fiery sauces filled with Szechuan pepper… My roommate just told me about an olive oil chocolate bar that Xocolatl de David is making while I was typing this; that’s exactly what I’m talking about.

My current passion is for pink peppercorns. If their scent were bottled, I’d wear it as perfume. I first had this revelation when I tried the Pink Pepper cocktail at Yakuza, which, coincidently is made with Aviation Gin. That’s shaken with fresh grapefruit juice, bitters, lime, and pink peppercorns that float on top, perfuming your nostrils with every lively sip. It’s fantastic.

At Aviary, a new restaurant on Alberta Street where three chefs collaborate every night to turn out an inventive and thoughtful menu, smoked pork ribs are served with a tamarind glaze, green papaya slaw, and a dusting of pink peppercorns that brighten the entire dish.

A friend recently pulled me into Sizzle Pie on East Burnside to try their pizza, but I was completely enthralled by the salad. The Word Salad as it’s called, is a simple combination of good local red leaf lettuce (the silky yet crunchy texture is critical), pepperoncinis, red onions, and pepitas. But it’s the dressing, this super-light, magic dressing that I cannot stop thinking about and would probably put on every vegetable that came across my kitchen counter if I had the recipe, is what really makes it. They call it their Vegan Pink Peppercorn White Wine Vinaigrette, I call it amazing, and I can’t wait to figure out how to make a version of it myself.

I’ll leave you with a heavenly photo by blogger Aran Goyaga from her gorgeous website, Canelle et Vanille, of raspberry macarons with pink peppercorn buttercream. Here. See what I mean?

Sunday, January 30, 2011

`Ono Oahu

If you're driving through Kalihi and see this mural overhead, pull into the parking lot immediately, because you have found Alicia's Market, quite possibly the home of the best poke I've ever had. Doubling as a liquor store, and sharing the parking lot with a laundromat, this place is in a grittier part of Honolulu, but definitely worth seeking out. The fish is clearly cut fresh (the shiniest, reddest ahi I have seen in a long time), and they have a selection of other pokes as well. The tako (octopus) was awesome.

To me, the the food flavors of Hawaii are best expressed in the fresh fish (especially raw), tropical fruit (local papaya that tastes of flowers and strawberries, unlike any other), and the local foods that are often fatty and fried, and mouth-fillingly delicious.

Discoveries and recommendations from this last trip:

1. Alicia's Market (see above). Conveniently located between the airport and town, or Waikiki.

2. Fiji Market and Curry Kitchen in Kahuku. Wow, we were just driving by on the way from the Eastside to the North Shore on Kamehameha Hwy., and thank goodness, I followed my boyfriend's instincts to stop at this place. Best curry that I've had IN YEARS: the shrimp (local, from a farm down the road) curry.

3. Town: always great, breakfast lunch or dinner. In the morning they have great coffee (not the easiest to find on Oahu if you're used to NW coffee), and seriously delicious, flaky scones that change daily. Most of their menu is shaped by the produce coming from local Ma'o organic farm. DownTown, their other location, is excellent for fresh, creative salads and lunch items.

4. Acai bowls: I can't decide if I like this surfer food or not, it's more of a dessert to me than a meal. But if you want to try one, the best was at Lani Kai Juice in Kailua. This is also a great choice if you're looking for a smoothie made of Hawaiian fruit.*

5. Breakfast at Morimoto: decadent, but amazing and interesting. And the outdoor tables look out over the harbor and ocean. The banana/mac nut pancakes are served with kuromitsu (molasses) syrup, and the Japanese style breakfasts are a true treat, with components such as a sous-vide poached egg, miso cod, seaweed, rich dashi, and rice porridge.

6. The fresh markets of Chinatown: these places will transport you straight to Asia, with exquisitely fresh fish, produce, and many prepared food choices.

*One thing about Lani Kai Juice, and so many other takeout places in Hawaii is that they still use styrofoam containers! With all the compostable stuff out there, and the garbage situation in Hawaii, I feel like there's no excuse for this. I hope it's outlawed soon.

`Ono means "delicious" in Hawaiian.

Sunday, January 09, 2011

Satiated in Seattle


Those oysters took me to my happy place. I was made aware of this by my roommate and dining companion, who commented after I finished my third Kushi oyster and glass of muscadet that I had what is apparently my look of delighted satisfaction all over my face. Those oysters were fantastic. My favorite variety, from the dark almost freezing waters of British Columbia, with a sweet succulence that stands apart from all others. I was in oyster heaven. Of course, the atmosphere of the new Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle's Ballard neighborhood helped to take me there, with a metal bar, marble tabletops, whitewashed walls, and delicate framed line drawings of the namesake Lewis Carroll poem. In the open kitchen, food is cooked in vintage enameled French pots and plated on hand-crafted wooden cutting boards beside wire baskets filled with ice and Northwest oysters. And at 4:00 p.m. on a Saturday afternoon, a golden setting sun bounced off of the boats docked nearby through the walls of windows and onto every shiny surface in the place.

Three friends and I were in Seattle this weekend to eat, drink and view the Picasso exhibition at the Seattle Art Museum. The quick trip to our city north was filled with newness and more than satisfying for such a short one. A few places we visited, which I highly recommend:

The Boat Street Cafe - I had brunch at the original location in college. The new one, a bit less charming, having moved from a boat house under a bridge to a new building on Westlake, is still a top place for brunch. The cornmeal cake with sausage and maple syrup, as well as baked eggs with spinach, bacon and breadcrumbs were my favorites.

Melrose Market - Indoor gourmet market encompassing multiple shops and eateries. We had lunch at Sitka & Spruce, which was beyond lovely. Precious vegetables, open kitchen, perfect bread, sparkling rosé by the glass, music played on a record player.

Spinasse - Intimate Italian (Piemonte) restaurant on Capitol Hill, wonderful housemade pastas were the centerpiece, but the rabbit meatballs stole the show.

Bathtub Gin - A tiny two-story bar down a Belltown alley. Brick walls and well stocked bar (I was happy to find Portland's own Ransom Old Tom Gin on the shelf) - a place to come with a couple of friends, or no one.

Next time I'd like to spend more time in Ballard, eat at Staple and Fancy and bar hop on Ballard Avenue. I am determined to one day have a drink at the bar amongst the surly sailors at the Lock & Keel Tavern. Meanwhile, I have to note that it continues to amaze me how the area around Seattle University, where I spent four years prior to 2001, has become the hottest area in Seattle for bars and restaurants. Lark, Spinasse, Cafe Press, Tavern Law, the list goes on. When I lived there it was surrounded by coffee shops, vacant buildings and a Value Village.

But one of my favorite things, built in Victorian times and thriving today, is the Conservatory at Volunteer Park, which is a warm and tropical cocoon filled with the plants of my island home. I take deep breaths in there of the moist air and warm soil, and think of Hawaii...

Friday, December 17, 2010

So, the sitcom "Portlandia" airs on IFC in February, and we've already seen previews of the show, making fun of the alternative side of the city. It will no doubt make people (at least those who live here)chuckle. But, I just came across this little video on the NYT blog, made by someone who lives here, a little love letter to Portland (in the rain). To me, it illustrates much better what Portland, Oregon is all about - in all of its biking, hiking, beer-drinking glory.

Monday, December 06, 2010

Lean Budget, Lentil Soup

Too much eating out and too much travel has amounted to a pretty dry bank account. I hardly cook much anymore, so my kitchen creativity is out of practice. I asked my friends on Facebook how they save money, and got some pretty helpful suggestions: make coffee at home, make rice and beans, buy produce from small markets, make pasta, roast a chicken for dinner and use the rest for soup and curried chicken sandwiches, cook large batches of chili, soup, lasagna, etc. and basically eat the same thing all week. A couple of people suggested cooking with eggs and lentils. So, I took all to heart, and spent Sunday making lentil soup. I bought groceries (for much less than where I usually shop!) at Cherry Sprout Produce, a community market in North Portland. A whole bag of groceries cost $18! It seems that normally I spend about $40 per bag. My soup turned out so delicious, I almost cried. I used the recipe for "Lively Up Yourself Lentil Soup" from 101 Cookbooks, and adapted it as follows. It makes four LARGE servings. I used less tomatoes than it originally called for, and more greens, which made it even cheaper! I'm looking forward to 101 Cookbooks' new cookbook, "Super Natural Everyday" for more inspiration.

1 1/2 cups green lentils
1 small/medium onion, diced
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1 12 ounce can crushed tomatoes
2 cups water (more if needed)
1 big bunch of chard, leaves chopped into short strips, and ribs chopped into chunks
1 small garnet yam, cubed
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt, ground coriander, ground cumin, ground cayenne pepper, and mild smoked paprika (pimenton de la vera) to taste

1. Rinse lentils and pick over for any debris.
2. Boil 5 cups of salted (1-2 tsps) water in a large pot. When boiling, add lentils and cook for about 20 minutes. Check for doneness at 15 minutes, as cooking time varies, more or less, depending on the freshness of the lentils. Just before they are fully cooked, drain them and set aside.
3. After the lentils have begun to cook, in a heavy pot, heat the olive oil on medium, and when hot enough, saute the onion. After the onion has begun to cook, add a little salt, and some of the coriander and cumin (more coriander than cumin - a few dashes of each to start).
4. When onions are almost done, add the yam and chard stems. Saute for a few minutes, then add the whole can of crushed tomatoes.
5. Add the 2 cups of water, more salt, and spices, including the cayenne (watch out - it's hot!), in waves and taste along the way.
6. When the yams are almost cooked, add the chard leaves, lentils, and more salt and spices to taste. Don't be afraid to salt it!
7. Serve.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010


11:30 a.m., Thanksgiving eve. Sitting here at work, rapidly bouncing from one website to another (partly working, partly surfing). My mind goes from the task at hand to...turkey-stuffing-appetizer-which appetizer?-green goddess dressing- fresh vegetables-kauai-table-decor-friends in Hawaii-flowers-dessert-cooking-work-sunshine-snow-travel. Anyway, I somehow end up going from Bon Appetit (printed version on my desk, online version on my screen) to Design Sponge. I see this beautiful thing, head pieces that look like haku leis. Made by a lady in Sydney. Flowers and creativity. I think of my Kauaians, my flower girls - Mele and the Blaichs (love in kilauea), Moana in Mexico, mama Leah with Zion in the Palolo jungle. I am thankful for all of you, and I miss you on this holiday eve. I hold you all in my heart right now.
And, I wish I could've sent you all some of those flowers up there, from the market in Chiang Mai.

Sunday, November 21, 2010


One of the reasons why Portland has such a vibrant food culture is because of the community here, and the web of relationships that facilitate partnerships and creativity. Food artisans are inspired by chefs and farmers and vice-versa. I get to observe this through my own friends and work with the culinary community here, but attended a dinner the other night where that was clearly presented to all in attendance. Portland Food Adventures is a new supper club of sorts, where diners are given insight into a chef's world for duration of a dinner. At a different restaurant in Portland each time (about once a month), diners are served a family-style multi-course dinner, described and introduced by the chef, with wine pairings if they want, and leave with a goodie bag full of the chef's favorite indie foodie spots around town. These could be bakeries, cafes, chocolate shops, breweries, coffee roasters, etc. And it's always an example of how chefs and food people here support one another's businesses.

This week's dinner was at Ned Ludd, "an American craft kitchen." Chef/owner Jason French (pictured above) cooks everything in a wood-fired oven, cures his own charcuterie, pickles his own vegetables, and welcomes diners to ask questions if they have them, addressed to him in the open kitchen. I love the feel of this place - warm lighting a blazing fire, piles of wood, jewel toned walls and repurposed wood details with staghorn fern and air plants peaking out of vintage containers. The interior is, very, "Portland." We had pickles, cured meat (amazing bacon), a smoked trout salad with feathery greens, a deliciously comforting and savory farro with smoked pork loin on top and rainbow trout. The dessert were s'mores with every element made by hand by David, of Xocolatl de David. I don't like s'mores traditionally done, but if those were always on the menu at Ned Ludd, I'd order them time after time. When every element of a dish is quality, the flavor cannot be topped.

In attendance that night were French's friends and colleagues from House Spirits distillery, Heart coffee roaster and the owner of local deli favorite Meat Cheese Bread. In speaking about their businesses, and one another, it showed how much support they each show each other, and respect that they have for one another. It was a great night of learning more about my city through the joys of dining.

For a great read about the Portland food scene, check out the November 2010 Travel + Leisure's article, "Portland's Cutting-Edge Cuisine," which features Jason French.

Monday, October 18, 2010


5 Things That Surprised Me About Eating in Thailand:

1. Thais normally eat with a spoon and a fork, not chopsticks. Unless you're eating Chinese food. Or noodles, which are essentially of Chinese origin.

2. In Northern Thailand, pork seems to be as popular as it is in Portland. Pork bits seem to find their way into most meals, even if it's just a bit of bacon to flavor cooked greens.

3. Street vendors/casual restaurants usually serve one dish. It's usually about $1.00. For a whole meal.

4. Those jars set on the table filled with condiments - they're expected to be used. Food (i.e. noodle dishes) doesn't always show up completely seasoned. You're expected to add fish sauce, chilis in vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, or whatever you like, to your own taste, and mix it well. Apparently, we Americans (myself included) are often separators, and don't stir our food before we eat it.

5. Chiang Mai seemed to have as many espresso shops as Portland. Except, they're very modern, and often surrounded by tropical foliage.

Sign for coffee shop in Chiang Mai (Wawee, my favorite) buried under jungle plants:

Top photo: airport food in Chiang Mai - Khao Soi (a signature regional dish - chicken stew with coconut), and Andy demonstrating how to properly eat in Thailand in the background with his egg, ground pork and rice.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Cameron winery's 2009 Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) is downright delicious. We drank it it last night with a light tomato-garlic-basil pasta, zucchini gratin and green salad from the farmer's market. This wine has a slight effervescence, pleasing fruit and crisp dryness. If I had a restaurant I would put this on the by-the-glass list immediately. It is absolutely refreshing. It's an excellent end-of-the-summer wine when all of those fruits of the vine ripen in the garden and decorate your meals vibrant color.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010


Last weekend in Vancouver, B.C., I set out to consume as much Asian food as was humanly possible, returning to Portland with a full belly and a list of places to try on my next visit.

We took a cab straight from the airport to Vij's on Friday night, where we were greeted with glasses of prosecco and a continuous offering of freshly fried tidbits(lentil fritters, potato puffs, etc.). Vij's is one of the most highly regarded Indian restaurants in North America, and we were treated to an 8-course dinner selected by the chef himself. I was surprised by what were my favorite courses - the jackfruit and goat curries.

The next morning, my friend Nathan Fong, a local and expert on the Chinese food scene there, picked us up and took us on a breakfast crawl. First stop was for radish cakes, noodles and seabass congee with ginger at Congee Noodle House. Then it was off to Chinatown for apple dumplings, and a delicious meatball Bánh mì from Kim Saigon sandwich counter. Nathan is an excellent culinary guide, and lucky for us, writes some fantastic articles in the Vancouver Sun that offer additional recommendations.

Fully stuffed with Nathan's promise of a multi-stop dinner, we decided to skip lunch. However, late in the afternoon I found it impossible to resist trying the famous Japadog (photo below), since the cart was parked right in front of our hotel. Seaweed on top of a kurubota pork sausage? How could I not? It turned out to be tasty, but one might be enough for my lifetime.

It was that night sold me on Vancouver's food scene. Izakayas are everywhere. We went to the original Guu for kimchi fried rice, pork cheek and pork belly skewers, fried chicken and jelly fish salad. 6 people crowded around a tiny wooden table drinking light Canadian lager (Russell lager is so refreshing!) was tons of fun. We inhaled our food, and then it was off to Lin's for dumplings and more. Much more. We sat at a big round table right in front a a plexiglass window behind which Lin herself was rapidly rolling out dough and filling dumplings at a speedy pace. She's known for her Shanghai style juicy dumplings, filled with warm, savory broth. We had wontons drizzled with an aromatic Szechuan pepper sauce, pan fried dumplings filled with roast pork, cold Beijing-style noodles, dan dan noodles, radish cakes, and a number of other truly delicious dishes. This was by far one of my favorite Chinese meals ever. It's also unbelievably affordable. My mouth is fully watering right now. I can't even look at the website without salivating. Go there if you go to Vancouver!!

We were stuffed by then. Our friends kept threatening to take us to a ramen shop afterwards, and we were terrified until we realized that they were only joking. The next morning we woke up and headed to a late brunch at Medina Café, a tiny, charming space with a creative menu that I HIGHLY recommend, despite the long wait. I had a lavender latte (delicious, believe it or not), and the vibrant and satisfying tagine with poached eggs.

After walking away the afternoon in Gastown and the Coal Harbour waterfront, we ducked into Kingyo Izakaya. The menu was full of unexpected combinations: kimchi tomatoes (in the photo above), pork belly bibimbap, wasabi octopus and snow crab/cheese spring rolls. Lots of fun fusion going on here (love the Korean influence), playful presentation and lively flavors. I can't wait to go back!

Monday, August 09, 2010

I am way overdue to write about rosé. This is the summer of it. This season, vinophiles all over the country finally embraced this lovely pink libation. Seeing a rosy color in the glass makes people happy, I think. I'll bet Kermit Lynch is happy.

What was so exciting for me about seeing more wine drinkers consuming rosé is that we saw a much more varied selection in shops and restaurants, and the style of rosé (flavor, aroma, sugar level) can vary as much as red or white wine. They can range from dark and meaty (with red berry flavors), to light and salmon-colored. But the thing about rosé is that it's much more fun to drink than it is to talk about it. Opening a rosé creates a lighthearted mood in a room. Open a few bottles, and you've got a party, as a few friends and I found during our rosé tasting last month*.

Here are a few favorites that I've tasted this summer:
1. Big Table Farm 2009 Laughing Pig Rosé - I had this at a "Rhones and Bones" BBQ and wine pairing dinner at Podnah's Pit, put on by Storyteller Wines (one of the best shops in Portland). We had many incredible French bottles open that night (red and white), but the depth and structure of this limited edition Pinot Noir rosé from Oregon, with it's deep color, body and red fruit, was the ideal match for a rack of bbq ribs.
2. Cameron's Vino Pinko (NV) - You can always count on John Paul to do something unexpected with familiar varietals. In this case, a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier tastes not French, but distinctly...Italian. Incredibly Italian, like a baby, pink, Barbera? It's got the earth, olive and dark berry flavor without the searing tannin. Revolutionary. No wonder Che Guevarra is on the label. This wine is fantastic.
3.Matello 2009 Pinot Noir Rosé - This is the most interesting one I've every had. It has a round, almost creamy feel on the palate as well as a slight funkiness that, I believe, comes from the secondary fermentation (unusual for rosés). Surprising and delightful.
4. Byrd Winery - This dark, cherry colored rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon from an upstart winery in Sonoma was bursting with fruit flavor. We opened it at the Gorge before a concert and served it with some salami (saucisson d'Alsace)from Olympic Provisions, and it was perfect (a slightly off-dry, fruit-forward rosé is excellent with salty charcuterie!).


[Enjoying a glass of Ménage à Trois, otherwise known as the only rosé sold at Safeway in Lake Tahoe, proving that the setting in which you drink rosé in in the summertime is really half the fun.]

*Read more about our extensive Oregon rosé tasting and other recommendations in "The Pink Ladies Rule the Rosé School" by my friend Jen.
Some very eclectic and affordable Willamette Valley white wines have been popping up recently, seemingly in the footsteps of the original untraditional blend of nine grapes found in Sokol Blosser’s Evolution. These unexpected conglomerations of white varietals are wonderfully food friendly, interesting and approachable wines that pair well with a range of summertime menus.

One sniff n’ sip of Montinore Estate’s ’09 Borealis at a recent tasting transported me from the warehouse I stood in to a red checked blanket on a grassy hill, lazing under a tree with a canning jar full of the stuff. This fresh, sunny, slightly off-dry combination of Müller-Thurgau, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Riesling is perfect picnic wine, ripe with fruit but maintaining enough acid to drink with chicken sandwiches and summer salads. It's only about $13 a bottle, and organic, too.

When I dined at Castagna recently, I was presented with the challenge of selecting a wine that would be both economical and that would pair with the multitude of dishes that would soon arrive at our table for five. Twenty different dishes – how could you choose anything but a blend? Chef Matt Lightner’s cooking is complex, with an emphasis on freshness and delicacy. The wine that satisfied was Matello’s “Whistling Ridge” ’08 white wine. This Alsatian-style blend of Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer grown in the Ribbon Ridge AVA is silky, full-bodied and slightly off-dry, with great acid and a subtle aroma of ripe fruit (retail price $18).

Finally, the '09 Amrita by Cuvée A (Anne Amie’s second label) is an array of aromatic varietals that changes with each harvest. It's fresh with a blast of exotic fruit and citrus bright acid, minerality and medium body. The wine is a nice accompaniment to Thai food, light picnics (with salads containing summer fruit) and, as the winery's website suggests, Bánh mì (about $16).

Monday, July 12, 2010


Two weeks ago, I found myself in Reno around lunchtime with a few hours to kill with my girlfriends on our way to Lake Tahoe. Three hungry women driving a convertible through what looked like a sunny culinary wasteland, no clue where to go. I called on my special forces, a.k.a. Facebook, and sent a message to a travel writer friend of mine. He suggested a Mexican place, nothing fancy, surprisingly known for its seafood. Beto's. And it was great. Shrimp and fish tacos, a ceviche tostada, and a glass of Jamaica. I was a happy and satiated camper. Plus, we walked in and they had Telemundo's broadcast of the World Cup playing on two TVs. Perfect.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010


Well, I was going to rhapsodize about Hood strawberries (similar to the Marionberry in level of native Oregonian seasonal specialness), until I found that everybody in Portland already has, from area bloggers to the president of my favorite grocery store. Everybody's talking about them. "You haven't had a strawberry until you've..." Anyway, tonight, I'm eating them.

This evening I stayed home, resisting the weekly wine tasting at Ten-01...three ageworthy wines from Oregon, Italy and Burgundy, each at their drinking peak of about 10 years old... but I found out about it when I already had a bag full of produce from today's farmers market. So I made this salad of arugula, Hood strawberries, parmesan, and a dollop of fresh pesto on top that I whipped up in my roommate's magical mini-Cuisinart. This salad, drizzled with a little balsamic and good olive oil, paired with a glass or two from a $6 of Rosso from TJ's completely validated the decision to stay in. Mangia!